What Are Some Plants That Repel Mosquitoes?
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Phil_Reusch/134338]Phil Reusch
When enjoying your porch or patio in the evening, you might have some mosquito problems. Sprays can repel them. Candles can do the job as well getting rid of mosquito problems in the area. One solution to mosquito problems is planting plants that can help repel mosquitoes. Enough of these plants around your porch or other area that you like to enjoy yourself, you can have a natural barrier to mosquito problems.
Rosemary - This herb helps with mosquito problems. The issue with this plant is that it only grows well in hotter environments. If you are in a cold environment, you can get rosemary oil to help with the problem.
Marigolds - These plants have been used for insect problems for quite sometime. Organic gardeners have used these to repel aphids. Mosquitoes happen to not like this scent as well.
Catnip - This plant works a bit different because it's normally applied to the skin to repel mosquitoes. Grow it around your yard and from time to time use it on the skin if mosquitoes are in the area.
Citronella Grass - This plant is used for many natural mosquito repellents because of it's oil, citronella oil. This too is normally applied to the skin. It's also found in many commercial products for controlling mosquito issues.
Also consider growing these plants as they are effective against mosquitoes and other pests: garlic, peppermint, lemon balm, lavender, clove, eucalyptus, and ageratum.
Some plants work better when turned into oils that can be put on the skin or even burned to make an aroma that repels mosquitoes. Many of these scents and smells are found in some of the more natural mosquito control products. You can purchase the little pots that sit on your table to keep the mosquitoes away. They work to a certain degree but not always. Depends on how bad the mosquitoes are at that time.
While these might not be a total solution to mosquito problems, these plants will help. It's less likely mosquitoes are going to breed in areas heavy with scents that they don't like that much.
One way of controlling mosquito problems is with plants. Find out which plants can repel mosquito problems in your yard. Don't let the summer go without enjoying the outdoors in your yard. Being outside when the mosquitoes are being a pest can make the outdoors not very inviting. Using the plants will eliminate using the bug spray so much.
Phil has been writing articles for several years for his many websites on different subjects. His current project at [http://www.officephonesystemsonline.com] will help people choose office phone systems [http://www.officephonesystemsonline.com] that meet their communications requirements for their office.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Are-Some-Plants-That-Repel-Mosquitoes?&id=4046814] What Are Some Plants That Repel Mosquitoes?
Thursday, November 21, 2019
Wednesday, November 20, 2019
Poppy Seeds - How To Grow Poppies From Seed
Poppy Seeds - How To Grow Poppies From Seed
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Julie_Calhoun/760066]Julie Calhoun
How to Grow Poppies
Poppies are one of the most colorful flowers to grow in the garden. Knowing how to grow poppy seeds will make sure that they survive in your garden for many years.
Most poppies are grown from seed. Poppies also self seed so that each year you will have more and more to enjoy.
Growing Poppies from Seed
Start your poppy seeds by spreading the seed outside in fall or very early in spring. Scatter them sparingly or you will need to thin them later. The seed needs light to germinate, so be sure not to bury the seed. The seed also likes a cold spell, so sow in late Fall before the cold weather arrives, or you can sow the seed in very early spring.
In early spring, the cold weather will give way to warm spring sunshine and the seeds will receive sufficient moisture to germinate. In warmer areas where winters are mild, it is better to sow the seed in fall or in your coolest months. The seed will stay dormant until the weather starts to warm up. From germination to bloom is just a few weeks and the late spring show will be spectacular.
Grow the poppies in full sun and in well drained soil or the plants will become waterlogged and keel over. Make sure that you amend the area well with compost to give lots of nutrients to the plants as well as help with poor drainage. Use a slug and snail bait as those critters have a tendency to gobble up the tiny shoots as they emerge.
The middle of a perennial border is an ideal place for poppies as they will be taller than many edging plants, and with the oriental varieties dying down after bloom time, the vacant space they leave in the garden will not be noticed. If planted at the middle of the garden you could fill the gaps with other summer perennials such as phlox or salvias. If planted in the front of a garden bed you could fill the gaps with summer annuals.
After the poppies flower they produce an equally attractive flower head that contains heavy black, brown, grey, blue or white seeds. These will drop around the mother plant to give you more poppies for next year.
Alternatively you can harvest the seed head for fall crafts because they dry beautifully and hold their shape. Of course some of the seeds such as the annual breadseed poppy 'Papaver somniferum seeds' are edible and can be used in cakes, breads and other recipes.
Types of Poppy Seeds - Varieties
There are several basic types of poppy seeds and they are all grown the same way.
Oriental Poppy Seeds - The most common poppy and comes in reds, oranges, purples and whites. Perennial.
Peony Poppies - Spectacular fully double flower in reds, oranges, purples and white. Annual.
Meconopsis Poppies - Sometimes called the blue poppies but come in reds, yellows, purples and white also. Perennial.
Taffeta Poppies - Pastel colors and a feathery flower head that is very attractive. Annual.
Papaver Somniferum seeds - The bread seed poppy and a stunningly beautiful flower in a wide range of colors and shapes. Annual.
California Poppies - These are a totally different botanical family to the other poppies and are characterized by the name Eschscholzia. Shorter than the species poppies and self sow to cover an area in just a few years.
Whether you are planting a new garden space, or adding to an existing garden, grow poppies in your garden for early Spring colorful blooms. Poppies are carefree plants that will continue to grace your garden year after year. Soon you will wonder how you ever got along without those Poppy Seeds.
So now that you know more about adding [http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com/servlet/the-View-All-Poppy-Seeds/Categories]Poppy Seeds to...
...your home flower garden, stop by and visit the experts at One Stop Poppy Shoppe. [http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com]http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com. We carry a full line of both the Annual Poppy Seeds and the Perennial Poppy Seeds and are eager to show you our catalog and share our knowledge about poppies.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Poppy-Seeds---How-To-Grow-Poppies-From-Seed&id=5394962] Poppy Seeds - How To Grow Poppies From Seed
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Julie_Calhoun/760066]Julie Calhoun
How to Grow Poppies
Poppies are one of the most colorful flowers to grow in the garden. Knowing how to grow poppy seeds will make sure that they survive in your garden for many years.
Most poppies are grown from seed. Poppies also self seed so that each year you will have more and more to enjoy.
Growing Poppies from Seed
Start your poppy seeds by spreading the seed outside in fall or very early in spring. Scatter them sparingly or you will need to thin them later. The seed needs light to germinate, so be sure not to bury the seed. The seed also likes a cold spell, so sow in late Fall before the cold weather arrives, or you can sow the seed in very early spring.
In early spring, the cold weather will give way to warm spring sunshine and the seeds will receive sufficient moisture to germinate. In warmer areas where winters are mild, it is better to sow the seed in fall or in your coolest months. The seed will stay dormant until the weather starts to warm up. From germination to bloom is just a few weeks and the late spring show will be spectacular.
Grow the poppies in full sun and in well drained soil or the plants will become waterlogged and keel over. Make sure that you amend the area well with compost to give lots of nutrients to the plants as well as help with poor drainage. Use a slug and snail bait as those critters have a tendency to gobble up the tiny shoots as they emerge.
The middle of a perennial border is an ideal place for poppies as they will be taller than many edging plants, and with the oriental varieties dying down after bloom time, the vacant space they leave in the garden will not be noticed. If planted at the middle of the garden you could fill the gaps with other summer perennials such as phlox or salvias. If planted in the front of a garden bed you could fill the gaps with summer annuals.
After the poppies flower they produce an equally attractive flower head that contains heavy black, brown, grey, blue or white seeds. These will drop around the mother plant to give you more poppies for next year.
Alternatively you can harvest the seed head for fall crafts because they dry beautifully and hold their shape. Of course some of the seeds such as the annual breadseed poppy 'Papaver somniferum seeds' are edible and can be used in cakes, breads and other recipes.
Types of Poppy Seeds - Varieties
There are several basic types of poppy seeds and they are all grown the same way.
Oriental Poppy Seeds - The most common poppy and comes in reds, oranges, purples and whites. Perennial.
Peony Poppies - Spectacular fully double flower in reds, oranges, purples and white. Annual.
Meconopsis Poppies - Sometimes called the blue poppies but come in reds, yellows, purples and white also. Perennial.
Taffeta Poppies - Pastel colors and a feathery flower head that is very attractive. Annual.
Papaver Somniferum seeds - The bread seed poppy and a stunningly beautiful flower in a wide range of colors and shapes. Annual.
California Poppies - These are a totally different botanical family to the other poppies and are characterized by the name Eschscholzia. Shorter than the species poppies and self sow to cover an area in just a few years.
Whether you are planting a new garden space, or adding to an existing garden, grow poppies in your garden for early Spring colorful blooms. Poppies are carefree plants that will continue to grace your garden year after year. Soon you will wonder how you ever got along without those Poppy Seeds.
So now that you know more about adding [http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com/servlet/the-View-All-Poppy-Seeds/Categories]Poppy Seeds to...
...your home flower garden, stop by and visit the experts at One Stop Poppy Shoppe. [http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com]http://www.onestoppoppyshoppe.com. We carry a full line of both the Annual Poppy Seeds and the Perennial Poppy Seeds and are eager to show you our catalog and share our knowledge about poppies.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Poppy-Seeds---How-To-Grow-Poppies-From-Seed&id=5394962] Poppy Seeds - How To Grow Poppies From Seed
Tuesday, November 19, 2019
How To Find Orchid Plants For Sale
How To Find Orchid Plants For Sale
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jason_Hobbs/48773]Jason Hobbs
The orchid plants for sale needs to purchased by an individual as soon as possible, as it will be fresh and fine deal with flowers that will survive for several weeks. The orchids up for sale needs to be thoroughly evaluated by the buyer, as the plant may appear vigorous and fine at the time of purchasing it, but if circumstances are not proper afterwards, then the buds are likely to shrink with yellow coloration. An individual needs to avert such species up for sale. The flora of the orchid plants for sale needs to be hygienic with profound green shades and not droopy and desiccated. Further, the leaves of the plants that are up for sale, needs to be individually examined for the presence of any pests or insects infection concealed in it. The spikes of the blooms need to be ensured for their accurate pledge and the closeness of certain buds. An individual is also advised to check the mucks layer for ensuring the presence of any expired roots, depicting the weakness of the roots of those plants.
Other Helpful Tips:
An individual is firmly suggested to inquire the sales representative for certain nurturing techniques of the orchid plants for sale. A small booklet based on the caring methods for the plants may also greatly assist an individual to successively nurture them The presence of a professional related to the sorting of the plants can offer several additional guidelines and details regarding the light supply, water feeding, and fertilization process and that really will make a big difference in the proper selection for the orchid plants for sale. The dealers of the mail array on the internet platform and certain organizations may assist with hoard of consultants from several successful past orchid nurturer. The individual also needs to be acknowledged with the conveyance of the plants are up for sale in a store or nursery. Previously, the owner of a nursery would himself nurture them with the proper conduction of the entire phases of the growth and selling it straightly to the customers. But now-a-days, the orchid plants for sale in certain nurseries or stores are managed and handled quite differently.
Accomplishment:
The process of huge circulation known as Mericloning has escorted the specifications of incomparable digit of plants up for sale in the nurseries and stores. The finest types are randomly selected during the eradication of the key stem inclinations or core of the nurturing cells from the plants in laboratories annually. The immature orchid plants for sale are vended to the nurturer, who is bound to convey them a close blooming size.
If you would like to learn more about Growing Orchid [http://www.growingorchidhelp.com] and receive a FREE Newsletter on the subject visit the authors site [http://www.growingorchidhelp.com]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Find-Orchid-Plants-For-Sale&id=798402] How To Find Orchid Plants For Sale
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jason_Hobbs/48773]Jason Hobbs
The orchid plants for sale needs to purchased by an individual as soon as possible, as it will be fresh and fine deal with flowers that will survive for several weeks. The orchids up for sale needs to be thoroughly evaluated by the buyer, as the plant may appear vigorous and fine at the time of purchasing it, but if circumstances are not proper afterwards, then the buds are likely to shrink with yellow coloration. An individual needs to avert such species up for sale. The flora of the orchid plants for sale needs to be hygienic with profound green shades and not droopy and desiccated. Further, the leaves of the plants that are up for sale, needs to be individually examined for the presence of any pests or insects infection concealed in it. The spikes of the blooms need to be ensured for their accurate pledge and the closeness of certain buds. An individual is also advised to check the mucks layer for ensuring the presence of any expired roots, depicting the weakness of the roots of those plants.
Other Helpful Tips:
An individual is firmly suggested to inquire the sales representative for certain nurturing techniques of the orchid plants for sale. A small booklet based on the caring methods for the plants may also greatly assist an individual to successively nurture them The presence of a professional related to the sorting of the plants can offer several additional guidelines and details regarding the light supply, water feeding, and fertilization process and that really will make a big difference in the proper selection for the orchid plants for sale. The dealers of the mail array on the internet platform and certain organizations may assist with hoard of consultants from several successful past orchid nurturer. The individual also needs to be acknowledged with the conveyance of the plants are up for sale in a store or nursery. Previously, the owner of a nursery would himself nurture them with the proper conduction of the entire phases of the growth and selling it straightly to the customers. But now-a-days, the orchid plants for sale in certain nurseries or stores are managed and handled quite differently.
Accomplishment:
The process of huge circulation known as Mericloning has escorted the specifications of incomparable digit of plants up for sale in the nurseries and stores. The finest types are randomly selected during the eradication of the key stem inclinations or core of the nurturing cells from the plants in laboratories annually. The immature orchid plants for sale are vended to the nurturer, who is bound to convey them a close blooming size.
If you would like to learn more about Growing Orchid [http://www.growingorchidhelp.com] and receive a FREE Newsletter on the subject visit the authors site [http://www.growingorchidhelp.com]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Find-Orchid-Plants-For-Sale&id=798402] How To Find Orchid Plants For Sale
Sunday, November 3, 2019
How To Plant Pansies - When And Where To Plant Pansies For Best Results
How To Plant Pansies - When And Where To Plant Pansies For Best Results
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Lee_Dobbins/6097]Lee Dobbins
When it comes to garden flowers, pansies are the hands-down favorite of many gardeners because they have such a beautiful variety of colors and also are quite easy to plant and maintain. In fact, pansies are one of the few flowers that will withstand very cold temperatures and can overwinter in your garden to produce beautiful blooms early the next spring.
How To Plant
It's not hard to learn how to plant pansies, in fact they don't have any special requirements and can be planted the same as other plants. You want to start with a good healthy plant that has vibrant deep green leaves and is not leggy. Be sure that the root ball is well formed but not too compacted.
To plant your pansies, simply dig a hole in your garden that is a bit larger than the container the pansy comes in. Gently remove the pansy from the container and loosen up the root ball with your fingers. Place the pansy in the hole and fill in with dirt. You want to be sure to water your pansies after planning and add in some time release fertilizer. Be sure to fertilize your plants monthly thereafter.
Where To Plant Pansies
Like most other garden flowers, pansies have some specific requirements as to their placement. They need to get at least 4 hours of sun a day and need to be planted in well-drained soil. You don't want to plant them in an area that gets full sun because, unlike most flowers, pansies really won't do well especially if it is really hot and the full sun is blaring down on them.
Pansies will grow equally well in containers as they will planted right in your garden soil. They are a favorite plant to have in window boxes and do well in any type of planter as long as it drains properly.
When To Plant
Since pansies can survive the harsh winter, you want to plant them during the end of summer. That way they will bloom well into the fall, go dormant for the winter, and then bloom again in early spring. You want to make sure that the soil temperature is between 45 and 65� for best results. If the soil is too hot, your pansies may not grow well and if it is too cold they probably won't grow it all. In either case, you want it be sure to plant them well ahead of the first frost so that they are able to establish a root system to help them survive throughout the winter.
Learning how to plant pansies, where to plant pansies and when to plant pansies is not that difficult, but it is critical to follow these few simple rules if you want to have lush vibrant plants.
Next get more tips on [http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/buying-and-planting-pansies]planting pansies and find out how to have the most beautiful and functional garden on your street at [http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com]http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Plant-Pansies---When-And-Where-To-Plant-Pansies-For-Best-Results&id=6959228] How To Plant Pansies - When And Where To Plant Pansies For Best Results
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Lee_Dobbins/6097]Lee Dobbins
When it comes to garden flowers, pansies are the hands-down favorite of many gardeners because they have such a beautiful variety of colors and also are quite easy to plant and maintain. In fact, pansies are one of the few flowers that will withstand very cold temperatures and can overwinter in your garden to produce beautiful blooms early the next spring.
How To Plant
It's not hard to learn how to plant pansies, in fact they don't have any special requirements and can be planted the same as other plants. You want to start with a good healthy plant that has vibrant deep green leaves and is not leggy. Be sure that the root ball is well formed but not too compacted.
To plant your pansies, simply dig a hole in your garden that is a bit larger than the container the pansy comes in. Gently remove the pansy from the container and loosen up the root ball with your fingers. Place the pansy in the hole and fill in with dirt. You want to be sure to water your pansies after planning and add in some time release fertilizer. Be sure to fertilize your plants monthly thereafter.
Where To Plant Pansies
Like most other garden flowers, pansies have some specific requirements as to their placement. They need to get at least 4 hours of sun a day and need to be planted in well-drained soil. You don't want to plant them in an area that gets full sun because, unlike most flowers, pansies really won't do well especially if it is really hot and the full sun is blaring down on them.
Pansies will grow equally well in containers as they will planted right in your garden soil. They are a favorite plant to have in window boxes and do well in any type of planter as long as it drains properly.
When To Plant
Since pansies can survive the harsh winter, you want to plant them during the end of summer. That way they will bloom well into the fall, go dormant for the winter, and then bloom again in early spring. You want to make sure that the soil temperature is between 45 and 65� for best results. If the soil is too hot, your pansies may not grow well and if it is too cold they probably won't grow it all. In either case, you want it be sure to plant them well ahead of the first frost so that they are able to establish a root system to help them survive throughout the winter.
Learning how to plant pansies, where to plant pansies and when to plant pansies is not that difficult, but it is critical to follow these few simple rules if you want to have lush vibrant plants.
Next get more tips on [http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com/buying-and-planting-pansies]planting pansies and find out how to have the most beautiful and functional garden on your street at [http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com]http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Plant-Pansies---When-And-Where-To-Plant-Pansies-For-Best-Results&id=6959228] How To Plant Pansies - When And Where To Plant Pansies For Best Results
Saturday, November 2, 2019
Which is Better, Bare Root or Potted Hostas?
Which is Better, Bare Root or Potted Hostas?
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jerry_Van_Der_Kolk/73616]Jerry Van Der Kolk
The great debate. Bare Root or Potted Hostas? Which is the best choice for your average home gardener to purchase? Should you only buy potted plants or should you consider buying bare root hostas as well?
Let's cover the basics. A bare root hosta is simply a piece of freshly dug plant and root material. When you dig up an existing hosta clump and divide a few eyes from this clump, you have a piece of bare root hosta. A potted hosta on the other hand, is this same bare root piece of plant material which has been transplanted into a pot. Usually a potted hosta which is actively growing is proof of a successful transplant experience.
Since bare root pieces still have to endure the transplant process to survive, it is a fact you will have more transplanting success with potted hostas since they are already established. Many hosta vendors may argue this claim but I have found almost all of those who discredit this claim sell bare root hostas exclusively. So it is only natural they are "defending" their livelihood.
My experience is over 20 years growing and selling hostas. I am going to reveal to you what I think is the best solution for most home gardeners. I have dealt with growing and selling both bare-root hostas and potted hostas so my revelations are based on experience.
When is the last time you walked into your local garden center and purchased a bare root hosta? More than likely this has not occurred unless you walked into a specialty hosta grower who digs the plants on the spot. Why is this? I do not understand why the majority of Mail Order firms tend to ship bare root hostas. My only guess is to save on shipping costs?
I think potted hostas are better for the average home gardener. Why? They offer several advantages which include no transplant shock, planting convenience and survival rates.
There is little or no transplant shock when transferring a nicely rooted potted hosta into the ground. Usually a few sips of water after transplanting and you are done. Bare root hostas on the other hand endure shock since they have been cut or separated from the mother plant. The roots are usually cleaned of all soil. Does this sound natural? Each step causes more shock to the existing plant.
A potted plant offers the buyer the convenience to plant when he or she has the time. Most potted hostas can last for several months if not longer in their existing pots if need be. This allows the home gardener to plant during a weekend when they have the time, not necessarily immediately upon purchase.
People will argue with me but I dare say potted hostas endure better survival rates when considering the average home gardeners growing environment. I have been involved with growing acres of bare root hostas and thousands of potted hostas. I have witnessed first hand the survival rate of bare root hostas versus potted hostas. Potted hostas outperform bare root hostas any day of the week when it comes to transplanting survival rates. So next time you are looking to add some hostas to you garden just make sure they are potted!
Jerry Van Der Kolk has been involved directly with the Horticulture Industry for over 20 years. He now devotes his time to growing hard-to-find hostas for hosta collectors via his popular website [http://www.DirectSourceHostas.com]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Which-is-Better,-Bare-Root-or-Potted-Hostas?&id=436503] Which is Better, Bare Root or Potted Hostas?
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jerry_Van_Der_Kolk/73616]Jerry Van Der Kolk
The great debate. Bare Root or Potted Hostas? Which is the best choice for your average home gardener to purchase? Should you only buy potted plants or should you consider buying bare root hostas as well?
Let's cover the basics. A bare root hosta is simply a piece of freshly dug plant and root material. When you dig up an existing hosta clump and divide a few eyes from this clump, you have a piece of bare root hosta. A potted hosta on the other hand, is this same bare root piece of plant material which has been transplanted into a pot. Usually a potted hosta which is actively growing is proof of a successful transplant experience.
Since bare root pieces still have to endure the transplant process to survive, it is a fact you will have more transplanting success with potted hostas since they are already established. Many hosta vendors may argue this claim but I have found almost all of those who discredit this claim sell bare root hostas exclusively. So it is only natural they are "defending" their livelihood.
My experience is over 20 years growing and selling hostas. I am going to reveal to you what I think is the best solution for most home gardeners. I have dealt with growing and selling both bare-root hostas and potted hostas so my revelations are based on experience.
When is the last time you walked into your local garden center and purchased a bare root hosta? More than likely this has not occurred unless you walked into a specialty hosta grower who digs the plants on the spot. Why is this? I do not understand why the majority of Mail Order firms tend to ship bare root hostas. My only guess is to save on shipping costs?
I think potted hostas are better for the average home gardener. Why? They offer several advantages which include no transplant shock, planting convenience and survival rates.
There is little or no transplant shock when transferring a nicely rooted potted hosta into the ground. Usually a few sips of water after transplanting and you are done. Bare root hostas on the other hand endure shock since they have been cut or separated from the mother plant. The roots are usually cleaned of all soil. Does this sound natural? Each step causes more shock to the existing plant.
A potted plant offers the buyer the convenience to plant when he or she has the time. Most potted hostas can last for several months if not longer in their existing pots if need be. This allows the home gardener to plant during a weekend when they have the time, not necessarily immediately upon purchase.
People will argue with me but I dare say potted hostas endure better survival rates when considering the average home gardeners growing environment. I have been involved with growing acres of bare root hostas and thousands of potted hostas. I have witnessed first hand the survival rate of bare root hostas versus potted hostas. Potted hostas outperform bare root hostas any day of the week when it comes to transplanting survival rates. So next time you are looking to add some hostas to you garden just make sure they are potted!
Jerry Van Der Kolk has been involved directly with the Horticulture Industry for over 20 years. He now devotes his time to growing hard-to-find hostas for hosta collectors via his popular website [http://www.DirectSourceHostas.com]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Which-is-Better,-Bare-Root-or-Potted-Hostas?&id=436503] Which is Better, Bare Root or Potted Hostas?
Friday, November 1, 2019
How to Plant a Pool
How to Plant a Pool
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Foxley/167021]Tony Foxley
Planting is probably the most important part in establishing your pool and it is often the most neglected. A pool cannot be successful without a full complement of aquatic plants, an under planted pool will usually remain green or cloudy unless you invest in a biological filtration with an ultra violet clarifier, without which, makes it difficult to see your fish except when they are near to the surface.
Pools should be planted when the plants are in their growing season, which is normally from late March to the end of September. If the pool has been filled with tap water then allow this to stand for a few days to allow Chlorine and other chemicals to disperse. It is important that the aquatic plants be given at least three weeks to establish before introducing any fish.
Water plants should be planted in open sided baskets; except for water lily tubs, which are generally solid. The baskets should first be lined with basket liners to prevent soil erosion then filled to within 1" of the rim with Stapeley's own aquatic soil, which has at least 60% clay content. The intended plant should be trimmed if necessary, a hole is made in the middle of the soil with your hand and the plant placed in the soil so that the top of the soil of the plant is the same level as in the basket, firm the soil around the plant and push a couple of plant food tablets deep into the soil. Trim the excess basket liner then top of the soil with well washed aquatic gravel, this will help to prevent the fish from digging into the soil.
To help with selecting which basket to purchase, refer to this chart below.
o Mini round-1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
o Mini square- 1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
o Medium round- 1 marginal, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Small square- 1 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Medium square- 1 or 2 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Large square- 1 or 2 marginals, 15 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium water lily
o Contour- 1-3 marginals or 15 bunches of oxygenators
o Lily tub- 1-3 larger marginals, 20 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium or vigorous water lily
o Jumbo lily tub- 50-100 bunches of oxygenators or 1 vigorous water lily
The basket/tub should be placed into the pool in accordance to the type of plant it is (further details will be given later on). Avoid placing any plant basket too near moving water as the soil could be eroded and avoid putting lilies where fountains can splash them. Marginal plants look better in bold groups rather than individually, with the taller ones near the back of the pool and the lower growing ones near to the front.
It is difficult to give exact numbers of plants required for your pool, however, a guide to plant numbers can be found at the appropriate plant section.
Aquatic plants are divided into five main categories, these are: -
Oxygenating plants
Oxygenators are essential for all pools; the water is unlikely to clear until these plants are growing vigorously and in quantity. Without oxygenators, pools turn to a green pea-soup colour, this is caused by millions of microscopic, free floating single cell plants we call algae.
Algae flourish under the influence of sunlight and excess mineral salts present in the water. In time, oxygenators should compete for light and nutrients and literally starve the algae to death producing clear water. Apart from clearing the pool, oxygenators provide a supplementary food source for fish; they also provide a spawning medium and hiding place for fish, amphibians and insects. Oxygenators are sold either already potted up or as unrooted cuttings, which should be planted up and be placed, eventually, at the bottom of the pool.
Oxygenators- allow 5 bunches per 1 sq. metre of water surface
Water Lilies
These are without doubt the queens of the pool; these most beautiful of plants come in five colours, white, red, pink, yellow and changeable/copper. They can flower from June to October with often, a constant succession of blooms, each lasting for 3-5 days and some providing a delicate perfume.
Whilst most water lilies are cultivated for their beautiful flowers, the leaves of some varieties are also very pretty, with their striking tiger stripes or delicate mottling, water lily leaves also provide shade for fish and cut down the amount of sunlight reaching the water surface helping to control algae growth. Varieties vary in size from the dwarf 'Pygmaea Helvola' that has leaves often the size of a fifty pence piece and can grow in 6" of water, to the giant 'Gladstoneana' with its 18" diameter leaves; this variety can eventually live in 1.2 metres of water.
Care must be taken when selecting your water lily as the wrong choice could lead to the plant either being too big or too small for the pool, the ideal coverage rate for a water lily is approx 65-75% of the water surface; the coverage rates for each size of water lily is shown below. As an example, I have a pool 2 metres wide and 3 metres long (6 sq. metres in total), so I need a lily which will cover approx 65-75% of this amount of surface, (approx 4 sq, metres) so I need 1x medium/vigorous (m/v) water lily or 2 x small/medium (s/m) ones
o Water lilies- miniature (T)- allow 1 plant per 1 sq. metre of water surface
o Water lilies- small- allow (S) 1 plant per 1.5 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies-small-medium (S/M)- allow 1 plant per 2 sq. metres surface
o Water lilies-Medium (M)- allow 1 plant per 3 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies- medium/vigorous (M/V) allow I plant per 4 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies- Vigorous (V) allow 1 plant per 5 sq. metres of water surface
The depth water lilies should be planted will depend on the variety; all planting depths are measured from the water surface to the crown of the plant or soil level; -
Initial depth is the recommended planting depth for a new or young plant.
Optimum depth is the recommended long term planting depth, which would allow for optimum growth under 'typical' conditions.
Maximum depth specifies the recommended maximum depth, which a mature lily will survive at, but may only apply when assuming clear water and full sun.
Varieties
Miniature (T) Initial Depth 8cm - Opt Depth 16cm - Max depth 24cm
Small (S) Initial Depth 10cm - Opt Depth 20cm - Max depth 30cm
Small/medium S/M) Initial Depth 12cm - Opt Depth 24cm - Max depth 36cm
Medium (M) Initial Depth 15cm - Opt Depth 30cm - Max depth45cm
Medium/vigorous (M/V) Initial Depth 20cm - Opt Depth 40cm - Max depth 70cm
Vigorous (V) Initial Depth 25cm - Opt Depth 50cm - Max depth 90cm
Ideal water lilies for small pools- 2 sq. metres
- Caroliniana Nivea
- Laydekeri Lilacea (Pink)
- Froebelii (Red)
- Odorata Sulphurea (Yellow)
Ideal water lilies for medium sized pools - 5 sq metres
- Marliacea Albida (white)
- William falconer (Red)
- Marliacea Chromatella (Yellow)
- Gladstoniana (White)
Ideal water lilies for large pools- 8 sq metres +
- Colossea (Pink)
- Colonel A. J. Welsh (Yellow)
- Alba (White)
Marginal plants
These plants, in most cases will grow, both in damp soil and in waterlogged conditions with varying depths of water over the planting soil. In smaller pools there are a number of marginals that will help to provide some surface coverage and their roots will absorb waste nutrients. Marginals, however, are essentially decorative, with plants such as Iris and reeds providing a formal effect or symmetry in the pool. Alternately a more natural or informal effect can be produced using a mixture of vertical and clump forming plants to soften the edges between the pool and the rest of the garden. A pool without marginals may look flat and lifeless, marginal plants break up the flatness and provide a background to your water lilies.
When selecting marginals, like any other plant, pay attention to the any flowering period, flower colour, as well as the plant shape, texture, colour or height. Unless you are planting a formal pool, try to avoid planting marginals in even spaces and lines like soldiers, instead place different plants side by side for contrast or clumps of the same plant to form impressive displays, and have uneven gaps between others.
Like water lilies, most marginals appreciate full sun and occasional feeding, also when first planting marginals it is best to lower them slowly to their ideal depth (any planting depths given in our literature or on the web is measured from the top of the planting soil to the top of the pond).
Marginals- allow 1-2 plants per metre of shelf
Ideal marginal plants for the smaller pool.
o Caltha Palustris plena (Double marsh marigold)
o Calla palustris (Bog arum)
o Eriophorum angustifolium (Cotton grass)
o Geum rivale (Water avens)
o Iris setosa (Dwarf iris)
o Menyanthes trifoliata (Bog bean)
o Sparganium erectum (Burr-reed)
o Typha minima (Dwarf reedmace)
Ideal marginal plants for medium pools
o Acorus calamus (Sweet scented rush)
o Caltha Palustris (Marsh marigold)
o Alisma plantago (water plantain)
o Houttuynia cordata variegata (Chameleon plant)
o Iris ensata (Japanese water iris)
o Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
o Lysichiton camchatcensis (Japanese skunk cabbage)
o Persicaria amphibia (Amphibious bistort)
o Sagittaria japonica (Japanese arrowhead)
Ideal marginal plants for larger pools
o Caltha palustris var. palustris (Giant Marsh Marigold)
o Carex pendula (Drooping sedge)
o Cyperus longus (Sweet galingale)
o Iris pseudacorus (Yellow flag Iris)
o Pontederia cordata (Water pickerel)
o Ranunculus lingua 'Grandiflorus' (Greater spearwort)
o Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Albescens' (Bulrush)
o Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Zebrinus' (Zebra rush)
o Typha angustifolia (Lesser reedmace)
o Typha Latifolia (Greater reedmace)
o Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough' (Arum lily)
Buying Marginals
Marginals can now be purchased in 9cm pots, 1 litre baskets, 2 litre baskets, 3 litre baskets and occasionally as specimens in lily tubs, the smaller the pot size, the younger the plant, young plants will need to be given time to become a decent size and will eventually catch up with the older plants. 9cm plants need to be taken out of their pots and planted into medium sized planting baskets using Stapeley's own planting compost which has been specially formulated for aquatic plants. 1 and 2 litre plants are OK for the first year then will need to be planted as per 9cm plants. Although it is difficult to accurately recommend how many marginals to use, we generally say between 1 and 2 per 1 metre of shelf depending on the overall effect desired.
Deep Marginal Plants
This category of plants are essentially the same as water lilies in as much that they are planted some way below the surface and generally have leaves on or above the surface, however, they are usually mentioned separately. Deep-water marginals are planted in medium to large planting baskets in Stapeley's own planting compost and lowered slowly over a few weeks to their ideal depth.
Recommended varieties (Deep marginals)
o Aponogeton Distachyos (Water hawthorn)
o Nuphar lutea (Brandy bottle lily)
o Nymphoides peltata 'Bennettii' (Water fringe)
o Orontium aquaticum (Golden club)
Floating plants
Floating plants can be split into two basic groups; the first group contains the hardy plants, which are beneficial in small to medium pools, as they will quickley provide the valuable cover required to reduce algae growth plus their roots utilise waste nutrients in the water. Some of these plants could eventually cover the whole pool but all you have to do is occasionally remove any excess growth with a fish net. Lemna (Duckweed) and Azolla (Fairy moss) should be avoided in large pools, as their management will be more difficult.
Typical hardy floating plants
o Azolla filliculoides (Fairy moss)
o Hydrocharis morsus ranae (Frog-bit) not normally available until early May.
o Lemna minor (Common duckweed)
o Lemna trisulca (Ivy leafed duckweed)
o Straitiotes aloides (Water soldier/cactus)
The second group contains the tender, tropical floating plants, which look very attractive in the summer months, but which usually don't spread enough to provide much cover. These plants should be treated as annuals as they will die off in the first frost, it is very difficult and not economical to try and keep them alive over winter. Introduce as many plants as you choose from this group. Water hyacinth and Water lettuce are excellent at removing excessive nutrients, so much so that they are used in huge filtration plants in certain parts of the world, they are also good at removing heavy metals from drinking water.
Typical tender floating plants
o Eichhornia crassipes (Water hyacinth) not normally available until end of May
o Pistia straitiotes (Water lettuce) not normally available until end of May
Floating plants- allow 1 plant/portion per 1 sq. metre of water surface
Moisture loving/Bog /Poolside plants
Whilst the ground immediately surrounding most pools will be constantly damp in nature, this does not follow in the garden when using a pool liner, if this area dries up during the summer then a polythene liner can be placed 30-60cm under the soil to hold moisture (poke holes in the base to avoid water logging), alternatively, water on a regular basis to avoid drying out. These plants are mostly in 9cm pots but a few are also available in 1-litre pots. Certain varieties such as lobelia cardinalis, Lysimachia nummularia and Zantedeschia aethiopica are very tolerant and are sold as marginals too.
Ideal plants for a small poolside area
o Adiantum pedatum v. subpumilum (Dwarf evergreen fern)
o Asplenium trichomanes (Evergreen fern)
o Lychnis flos-cuculi (Ragged robin)
o Persicaria affine 'Donald lowndes'
o Primula auricula
o Primula veris (Native cowslip)
o Primula vulgaris (Native primrose)
Ideal plants for a medium sized poolside area
o Achillea 'Walter funcke
o Astilbe
o Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding heart)
o Hosta undulata var. albo-marginata
o Iris sibirica 'Snow queen
o Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
o Lythrum salicaria (Purple loostrife)
Ideal plants for a large sized poolside area
o Crocosmia 'Lucifer'
o Darmera peltata (umbrella plant)
o Dryopteris felix-mas (Male fern)
o Filipendula ulmaria (Meadow sweet)
o Gunnera manicata
o Hosta Halycon
o Ligularia dent. 'Desdemona'
o Osmunda regalis (Royal fern)
o Rheum palmatum (Giant rhubarb)
Tony foxley 1/3/2007. For Additional help why don't you email me direct on-
tony.foxley@stapeleywg.com or visit [http://www.stapeleywg.com/department/water_gardening_how_to_s/]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Plant-a-Pool&id=945931] How to Plant a Pool
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Tony_Foxley/167021]Tony Foxley
Planting is probably the most important part in establishing your pool and it is often the most neglected. A pool cannot be successful without a full complement of aquatic plants, an under planted pool will usually remain green or cloudy unless you invest in a biological filtration with an ultra violet clarifier, without which, makes it difficult to see your fish except when they are near to the surface.
Pools should be planted when the plants are in their growing season, which is normally from late March to the end of September. If the pool has been filled with tap water then allow this to stand for a few days to allow Chlorine and other chemicals to disperse. It is important that the aquatic plants be given at least three weeks to establish before introducing any fish.
Water plants should be planted in open sided baskets; except for water lily tubs, which are generally solid. The baskets should first be lined with basket liners to prevent soil erosion then filled to within 1" of the rim with Stapeley's own aquatic soil, which has at least 60% clay content. The intended plant should be trimmed if necessary, a hole is made in the middle of the soil with your hand and the plant placed in the soil so that the top of the soil of the plant is the same level as in the basket, firm the soil around the plant and push a couple of plant food tablets deep into the soil. Trim the excess basket liner then top of the soil with well washed aquatic gravel, this will help to prevent the fish from digging into the soil.
To help with selecting which basket to purchase, refer to this chart below.
o Mini round-1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
o Mini square- 1 small marginal or 5 bunches of oxygenators
o Medium round- 1 marginal, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Small square- 1 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Medium square- 1 or 2 marginals, 10 bunches of oxygenators or 1 small water lily
o Large square- 1 or 2 marginals, 15 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium water lily
o Contour- 1-3 marginals or 15 bunches of oxygenators
o Lily tub- 1-3 larger marginals, 20 bunches of oxygenators or 1 medium or vigorous water lily
o Jumbo lily tub- 50-100 bunches of oxygenators or 1 vigorous water lily
The basket/tub should be placed into the pool in accordance to the type of plant it is (further details will be given later on). Avoid placing any plant basket too near moving water as the soil could be eroded and avoid putting lilies where fountains can splash them. Marginal plants look better in bold groups rather than individually, with the taller ones near the back of the pool and the lower growing ones near to the front.
It is difficult to give exact numbers of plants required for your pool, however, a guide to plant numbers can be found at the appropriate plant section.
Aquatic plants are divided into five main categories, these are: -
Oxygenating plants
Oxygenators are essential for all pools; the water is unlikely to clear until these plants are growing vigorously and in quantity. Without oxygenators, pools turn to a green pea-soup colour, this is caused by millions of microscopic, free floating single cell plants we call algae.
Algae flourish under the influence of sunlight and excess mineral salts present in the water. In time, oxygenators should compete for light and nutrients and literally starve the algae to death producing clear water. Apart from clearing the pool, oxygenators provide a supplementary food source for fish; they also provide a spawning medium and hiding place for fish, amphibians and insects. Oxygenators are sold either already potted up or as unrooted cuttings, which should be planted up and be placed, eventually, at the bottom of the pool.
Oxygenators- allow 5 bunches per 1 sq. metre of water surface
Water Lilies
These are without doubt the queens of the pool; these most beautiful of plants come in five colours, white, red, pink, yellow and changeable/copper. They can flower from June to October with often, a constant succession of blooms, each lasting for 3-5 days and some providing a delicate perfume.
Whilst most water lilies are cultivated for their beautiful flowers, the leaves of some varieties are also very pretty, with their striking tiger stripes or delicate mottling, water lily leaves also provide shade for fish and cut down the amount of sunlight reaching the water surface helping to control algae growth. Varieties vary in size from the dwarf 'Pygmaea Helvola' that has leaves often the size of a fifty pence piece and can grow in 6" of water, to the giant 'Gladstoneana' with its 18" diameter leaves; this variety can eventually live in 1.2 metres of water.
Care must be taken when selecting your water lily as the wrong choice could lead to the plant either being too big or too small for the pool, the ideal coverage rate for a water lily is approx 65-75% of the water surface; the coverage rates for each size of water lily is shown below. As an example, I have a pool 2 metres wide and 3 metres long (6 sq. metres in total), so I need a lily which will cover approx 65-75% of this amount of surface, (approx 4 sq, metres) so I need 1x medium/vigorous (m/v) water lily or 2 x small/medium (s/m) ones
o Water lilies- miniature (T)- allow 1 plant per 1 sq. metre of water surface
o Water lilies- small- allow (S) 1 plant per 1.5 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies-small-medium (S/M)- allow 1 plant per 2 sq. metres surface
o Water lilies-Medium (M)- allow 1 plant per 3 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies- medium/vigorous (M/V) allow I plant per 4 sq. metres of water surface
o Water lilies- Vigorous (V) allow 1 plant per 5 sq. metres of water surface
The depth water lilies should be planted will depend on the variety; all planting depths are measured from the water surface to the crown of the plant or soil level; -
Initial depth is the recommended planting depth for a new or young plant.
Optimum depth is the recommended long term planting depth, which would allow for optimum growth under 'typical' conditions.
Maximum depth specifies the recommended maximum depth, which a mature lily will survive at, but may only apply when assuming clear water and full sun.
Varieties
Miniature (T) Initial Depth 8cm - Opt Depth 16cm - Max depth 24cm
Small (S) Initial Depth 10cm - Opt Depth 20cm - Max depth 30cm
Small/medium S/M) Initial Depth 12cm - Opt Depth 24cm - Max depth 36cm
Medium (M) Initial Depth 15cm - Opt Depth 30cm - Max depth45cm
Medium/vigorous (M/V) Initial Depth 20cm - Opt Depth 40cm - Max depth 70cm
Vigorous (V) Initial Depth 25cm - Opt Depth 50cm - Max depth 90cm
Ideal water lilies for small pools- 2 sq. metres
- Caroliniana Nivea
- Laydekeri Lilacea (Pink)
- Froebelii (Red)
- Odorata Sulphurea (Yellow)
Ideal water lilies for medium sized pools - 5 sq metres
- Marliacea Albida (white)
- William falconer (Red)
- Marliacea Chromatella (Yellow)
- Gladstoniana (White)
Ideal water lilies for large pools- 8 sq metres +
- Colossea (Pink)
- Colonel A. J. Welsh (Yellow)
- Alba (White)
Marginal plants
These plants, in most cases will grow, both in damp soil and in waterlogged conditions with varying depths of water over the planting soil. In smaller pools there are a number of marginals that will help to provide some surface coverage and their roots will absorb waste nutrients. Marginals, however, are essentially decorative, with plants such as Iris and reeds providing a formal effect or symmetry in the pool. Alternately a more natural or informal effect can be produced using a mixture of vertical and clump forming plants to soften the edges between the pool and the rest of the garden. A pool without marginals may look flat and lifeless, marginal plants break up the flatness and provide a background to your water lilies.
When selecting marginals, like any other plant, pay attention to the any flowering period, flower colour, as well as the plant shape, texture, colour or height. Unless you are planting a formal pool, try to avoid planting marginals in even spaces and lines like soldiers, instead place different plants side by side for contrast or clumps of the same plant to form impressive displays, and have uneven gaps between others.
Like water lilies, most marginals appreciate full sun and occasional feeding, also when first planting marginals it is best to lower them slowly to their ideal depth (any planting depths given in our literature or on the web is measured from the top of the planting soil to the top of the pond).
Marginals- allow 1-2 plants per metre of shelf
Ideal marginal plants for the smaller pool.
o Caltha Palustris plena (Double marsh marigold)
o Calla palustris (Bog arum)
o Eriophorum angustifolium (Cotton grass)
o Geum rivale (Water avens)
o Iris setosa (Dwarf iris)
o Menyanthes trifoliata (Bog bean)
o Sparganium erectum (Burr-reed)
o Typha minima (Dwarf reedmace)
Ideal marginal plants for medium pools
o Acorus calamus (Sweet scented rush)
o Caltha Palustris (Marsh marigold)
o Alisma plantago (water plantain)
o Houttuynia cordata variegata (Chameleon plant)
o Iris ensata (Japanese water iris)
o Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
o Lysichiton camchatcensis (Japanese skunk cabbage)
o Persicaria amphibia (Amphibious bistort)
o Sagittaria japonica (Japanese arrowhead)
Ideal marginal plants for larger pools
o Caltha palustris var. palustris (Giant Marsh Marigold)
o Carex pendula (Drooping sedge)
o Cyperus longus (Sweet galingale)
o Iris pseudacorus (Yellow flag Iris)
o Pontederia cordata (Water pickerel)
o Ranunculus lingua 'Grandiflorus' (Greater spearwort)
o Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Albescens' (Bulrush)
o Schoenoplectus (Scirpus) tab. 'Zebrinus' (Zebra rush)
o Typha angustifolia (Lesser reedmace)
o Typha Latifolia (Greater reedmace)
o Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough' (Arum lily)
Buying Marginals
Marginals can now be purchased in 9cm pots, 1 litre baskets, 2 litre baskets, 3 litre baskets and occasionally as specimens in lily tubs, the smaller the pot size, the younger the plant, young plants will need to be given time to become a decent size and will eventually catch up with the older plants. 9cm plants need to be taken out of their pots and planted into medium sized planting baskets using Stapeley's own planting compost which has been specially formulated for aquatic plants. 1 and 2 litre plants are OK for the first year then will need to be planted as per 9cm plants. Although it is difficult to accurately recommend how many marginals to use, we generally say between 1 and 2 per 1 metre of shelf depending on the overall effect desired.
Deep Marginal Plants
This category of plants are essentially the same as water lilies in as much that they are planted some way below the surface and generally have leaves on or above the surface, however, they are usually mentioned separately. Deep-water marginals are planted in medium to large planting baskets in Stapeley's own planting compost and lowered slowly over a few weeks to their ideal depth.
Recommended varieties (Deep marginals)
o Aponogeton Distachyos (Water hawthorn)
o Nuphar lutea (Brandy bottle lily)
o Nymphoides peltata 'Bennettii' (Water fringe)
o Orontium aquaticum (Golden club)
Floating plants
Floating plants can be split into two basic groups; the first group contains the hardy plants, which are beneficial in small to medium pools, as they will quickley provide the valuable cover required to reduce algae growth plus their roots utilise waste nutrients in the water. Some of these plants could eventually cover the whole pool but all you have to do is occasionally remove any excess growth with a fish net. Lemna (Duckweed) and Azolla (Fairy moss) should be avoided in large pools, as their management will be more difficult.
Typical hardy floating plants
o Azolla filliculoides (Fairy moss)
o Hydrocharis morsus ranae (Frog-bit) not normally available until early May.
o Lemna minor (Common duckweed)
o Lemna trisulca (Ivy leafed duckweed)
o Straitiotes aloides (Water soldier/cactus)
The second group contains the tender, tropical floating plants, which look very attractive in the summer months, but which usually don't spread enough to provide much cover. These plants should be treated as annuals as they will die off in the first frost, it is very difficult and not economical to try and keep them alive over winter. Introduce as many plants as you choose from this group. Water hyacinth and Water lettuce are excellent at removing excessive nutrients, so much so that they are used in huge filtration plants in certain parts of the world, they are also good at removing heavy metals from drinking water.
Typical tender floating plants
o Eichhornia crassipes (Water hyacinth) not normally available until end of May
o Pistia straitiotes (Water lettuce) not normally available until end of May
Floating plants- allow 1 plant/portion per 1 sq. metre of water surface
Moisture loving/Bog /Poolside plants
Whilst the ground immediately surrounding most pools will be constantly damp in nature, this does not follow in the garden when using a pool liner, if this area dries up during the summer then a polythene liner can be placed 30-60cm under the soil to hold moisture (poke holes in the base to avoid water logging), alternatively, water on a regular basis to avoid drying out. These plants are mostly in 9cm pots but a few are also available in 1-litre pots. Certain varieties such as lobelia cardinalis, Lysimachia nummularia and Zantedeschia aethiopica are very tolerant and are sold as marginals too.
Ideal plants for a small poolside area
o Adiantum pedatum v. subpumilum (Dwarf evergreen fern)
o Asplenium trichomanes (Evergreen fern)
o Lychnis flos-cuculi (Ragged robin)
o Persicaria affine 'Donald lowndes'
o Primula auricula
o Primula veris (Native cowslip)
o Primula vulgaris (Native primrose)
Ideal plants for a medium sized poolside area
o Achillea 'Walter funcke
o Astilbe
o Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding heart)
o Hosta undulata var. albo-marginata
o Iris sibirica 'Snow queen
o Lobelia cardinalis 'Queen victoria'
o Lythrum salicaria (Purple loostrife)
Ideal plants for a large sized poolside area
o Crocosmia 'Lucifer'
o Darmera peltata (umbrella plant)
o Dryopteris felix-mas (Male fern)
o Filipendula ulmaria (Meadow sweet)
o Gunnera manicata
o Hosta Halycon
o Ligularia dent. 'Desdemona'
o Osmunda regalis (Royal fern)
o Rheum palmatum (Giant rhubarb)
Tony foxley 1/3/2007. For Additional help why don't you email me direct on-
tony.foxley@stapeleywg.com or visit [http://www.stapeleywg.com/department/water_gardening_how_to_s/]
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Plant-a-Pool&id=945931] How to Plant a Pool
Trimming Aquatic Plants
Trimming Aquatic Plants
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jon_T_Cole/1479049]Jon T Cole
One of the appeals of aquatic plants is that they become more attractive as they grow. This is a characteristic that is only true for living plants and not for artificial ones. On the other hand, the very characteristic of growing can be problematic for enjoying an aquatic plant layout.
First of all, overgrown aquatic plants can destroy the balance of a layout, especially because stem plants and the undergrowth can fill up the open space and spoil a layout. Secondly, since aquatic plants grow at different speeds depending on their type, slow-growing plants can lose out to fast growing plants. Several types of aquatitic plants are often combined to produce an aquatic plant layout. Therefore, certain techniques are required for growing all of the plants attractively.
The Effect of Light
The light intensity changes in an aquarium depending on the water depth. Stem plants, which are heliophytic (light loving), tend to grow vertically to capture more light in a deep, dimly lit environment. In a bright environment near the water surface, they tend to spread more horizontally. If the fast growing stem plants are left unchecked, they can cover up slower-growing stem plants, causing them to deteriorate.
Since sciophytic (low-light) plants that are slow growing to start with can withstand the shade well, they are practically unaffected in such a condition. If anything, their leaves may grow larger.
Heliophytic plants will eventually die if they are kept in such a dimly lit condition. Thereiore, as a general rule, slower-growing stem plants are kept relatively longer and faster-growing stem plants are cut shorter during initial planting.
Trimming Different Plants
In this article, Alternanthera reineckii was left long since it is slow growing, while fast-growing Myriophyllum mattogrossense was cut short at the initial planting time. By changing the length of plants at the initial planting time like this, slow-growing aquatic plants can be grown just as well as fast-growing aquatic plants in the same layout.
Likewise, during trimming, fast-growing aquatic plants should be cut short at an earlier time while slow-growing aquatic plants should be cut to a somewhat longer length after waiting until they grow sufficiently tall. Although it would be easier to cut all the bushes of aquatic plants to a uniform length, extra care is required if there is a difference in the growing speed in the mix of aquatic plants, since slow-growing plants will be covered up by fast-growing plants and decline in the end.
Trimming aquatic plants in groups and staggering the timing for trimming, taking their growing speed into consideration instead of trimming all plants at once, is an important technique that enables you to enjoy an attractive layout for a longer period. In a layout, it is important to not only make an adjustment for the growth of stem plants depending on their type, but also to control the growth of the foreground and background plants so their peak periods match and viewing is optimal.
Many of the plants that are used as undergrowth in a foreground, such as Glossostigma and Riccia, grow fast and require frequent trimming. It is difficult to match the timing for trimming the foreground and the background with stem plants, and, therefore, doing so requires careful planning.
The recovery time after trimming Glossostigma and Riccia varies depending on how much they are trimmed. While they grow back very quickly if trimmed lightly on the surface, it takes some time for them to grow back to a uniform, attractive condition if they are trimmed close to the surface of the substrate.
Taking advantage of this characteristic, I vary the trimming procedure depending on the situation. For example, if the background is close to looking uniformly attractive, I trim the foreground lightly to match their peak viewing periods. On the other hand, if it is going to take some time for stem plants to grow back after rejuvenating them by replanting their tops, I trim the foreground short as well.
In addition, I plant relatively slow-growing sciophytic plants in the midground so a layout still looks attractive enough right after the drastic trimming of foreground and background.
Although a layout is not going to be as attractive as before right after the plants have been trimmed drastically, leaving untrimmed aquatic plants in the midground keeps it attractive enough for viewing.
The aquatic plant layouts in the ADA Nature Aquarium Gallery and those installed in other public facilities in particular must be created with the understanding that they will be viewed by the general public. Since sciophytic plants such as ferns, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias grow slowly compared to stem plants and other heliophytic plants, they don't require a lot of trimming.
Even when they are grown for a long period of time, they are maintained by cutting off overgrown leaves one by one as a general rule. It is practical to plant epiphytic plants such as ferns and Anubias in the midground, since composition materials such as rocks and driftwood are placed there. The slow growing speed of sciophytic plants is an advantage from the standpoint of the ease of maintenance. To find out more, you can check out [http://UltimateAquariumGuide.blogspot.com]Trimming Aquatic Plants.
Hi, I'm a traveler, fishes fanatic, reader and teacher. I hope to share [http://UltimateAquariumGuide.blogspot.com]my fishes experiences with you through my articles. If you like my articles, do share with your friends. I thank you for that first.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Trimming-Aquatic-Plants&id=7461291] Trimming Aquatic Plants
By [https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jon_T_Cole/1479049]Jon T Cole
One of the appeals of aquatic plants is that they become more attractive as they grow. This is a characteristic that is only true for living plants and not for artificial ones. On the other hand, the very characteristic of growing can be problematic for enjoying an aquatic plant layout.
First of all, overgrown aquatic plants can destroy the balance of a layout, especially because stem plants and the undergrowth can fill up the open space and spoil a layout. Secondly, since aquatic plants grow at different speeds depending on their type, slow-growing plants can lose out to fast growing plants. Several types of aquatitic plants are often combined to produce an aquatic plant layout. Therefore, certain techniques are required for growing all of the plants attractively.
The Effect of Light
The light intensity changes in an aquarium depending on the water depth. Stem plants, which are heliophytic (light loving), tend to grow vertically to capture more light in a deep, dimly lit environment. In a bright environment near the water surface, they tend to spread more horizontally. If the fast growing stem plants are left unchecked, they can cover up slower-growing stem plants, causing them to deteriorate.
Since sciophytic (low-light) plants that are slow growing to start with can withstand the shade well, they are practically unaffected in such a condition. If anything, their leaves may grow larger.
Heliophytic plants will eventually die if they are kept in such a dimly lit condition. Thereiore, as a general rule, slower-growing stem plants are kept relatively longer and faster-growing stem plants are cut shorter during initial planting.
Trimming Different Plants
In this article, Alternanthera reineckii was left long since it is slow growing, while fast-growing Myriophyllum mattogrossense was cut short at the initial planting time. By changing the length of plants at the initial planting time like this, slow-growing aquatic plants can be grown just as well as fast-growing aquatic plants in the same layout.
Likewise, during trimming, fast-growing aquatic plants should be cut short at an earlier time while slow-growing aquatic plants should be cut to a somewhat longer length after waiting until they grow sufficiently tall. Although it would be easier to cut all the bushes of aquatic plants to a uniform length, extra care is required if there is a difference in the growing speed in the mix of aquatic plants, since slow-growing plants will be covered up by fast-growing plants and decline in the end.
Trimming aquatic plants in groups and staggering the timing for trimming, taking their growing speed into consideration instead of trimming all plants at once, is an important technique that enables you to enjoy an attractive layout for a longer period. In a layout, it is important to not only make an adjustment for the growth of stem plants depending on their type, but also to control the growth of the foreground and background plants so their peak periods match and viewing is optimal.
Many of the plants that are used as undergrowth in a foreground, such as Glossostigma and Riccia, grow fast and require frequent trimming. It is difficult to match the timing for trimming the foreground and the background with stem plants, and, therefore, doing so requires careful planning.
The recovery time after trimming Glossostigma and Riccia varies depending on how much they are trimmed. While they grow back very quickly if trimmed lightly on the surface, it takes some time for them to grow back to a uniform, attractive condition if they are trimmed close to the surface of the substrate.
Taking advantage of this characteristic, I vary the trimming procedure depending on the situation. For example, if the background is close to looking uniformly attractive, I trim the foreground lightly to match their peak viewing periods. On the other hand, if it is going to take some time for stem plants to grow back after rejuvenating them by replanting their tops, I trim the foreground short as well.
In addition, I plant relatively slow-growing sciophytic plants in the midground so a layout still looks attractive enough right after the drastic trimming of foreground and background.
Although a layout is not going to be as attractive as before right after the plants have been trimmed drastically, leaving untrimmed aquatic plants in the midground keeps it attractive enough for viewing.
The aquatic plant layouts in the ADA Nature Aquarium Gallery and those installed in other public facilities in particular must be created with the understanding that they will be viewed by the general public. Since sciophytic plants such as ferns, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias grow slowly compared to stem plants and other heliophytic plants, they don't require a lot of trimming.
Even when they are grown for a long period of time, they are maintained by cutting off overgrown leaves one by one as a general rule. It is practical to plant epiphytic plants such as ferns and Anubias in the midground, since composition materials such as rocks and driftwood are placed there. The slow growing speed of sciophytic plants is an advantage from the standpoint of the ease of maintenance. To find out more, you can check out [http://UltimateAquariumGuide.blogspot.com]Trimming Aquatic Plants.
Hi, I'm a traveler, fishes fanatic, reader and teacher. I hope to share [http://UltimateAquariumGuide.blogspot.com]my fishes experiences with you through my articles. If you like my articles, do share with your friends. I thank you for that first.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Trimming-Aquatic-Plants&id=7461291] Trimming Aquatic Plants
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